Sealing woodburning projects is the best way to make your pyrography art stand the test of time.
What's the big deal about finishes?
The truth is, burns tend to fade over time. They fade faster with time, sunlight and use.
You'll want a different finish depending on the project you're doing. For example, you'll use a different sealant for wall art or jewelry than you will for a food-safe cutting board or wooden spoon.
So now that you're done burning, it's time to finish strong! (heh heh, see what I did there? #punnerd)
Here's a list I made for you of different woodburning finishes based on the project you're working on, along with some pros and cons to each one.
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These finishes are great for wall art, jewelry, and other general pyrography projects.
It's best to have something that will protect your work from sunlight coming in the windows (a.k.a. UV protection). But some of those finishes yellow over time.
You also want protection from fingerprints (especially if you sell your stuff at an art show or craft fair where people might touch it with their greasy hands... ewww).
FYI - While I prefer the matte finished look, high gloss finishes tend to be tougher and more durable.
That said, here are some great options for sealing woodburning projects.
Spar Urethane (liquid or spray):
Polycrylic (liquid or spray):
Polyurethane (liquid or spray):
When sealing woodburning projects that will end up outside, just remember that burns are not match for the sun.
In other words, they fade faster.
Most finishes crack pretty fast in the weather too.
These finishes do pretty well. Reseal it every year for the longest lasting protection.
I burned a lot of wood spoons and cutting boards when I first started out.
When sealing woodburning projects for the kitchen, start with an oil first. This penetrates the wood to protect it from long term use and prevents cracking.
Then add a water resistant coating to the outside. It's like adding a shell to keep the water out.
Generally, you should let oil dry for 15-30 minutes before adding another coat, wiping it off, or continuing to Step 2. Unless it's tung oil. That takes 7-8 hours between coats and 2-3 days for the final coat.
I like to add 2-3 coats.
These are best for creating that "shell" for keeping the water out.
Plain waxes must be combined with an oil, or they won't penetrate the wood enough to stay on and protect it.
Let these conditioners sit about 15-30 minutes before buffing off.
Carnauba Wax (food grade) & Oil:
Beeswax & Oil:
Some finishes don't play nicely with other mediums. Here's what I've learned works best.
Watercolor:
Acrylic:
Gouache:
Colored Pencils:
If you're like me, you want to burn things other than wood! Here are my suggestions for sealing woodburning projects that aren't actually wood.
Leather:
Paper:
Gourd:
Bone:
Cotton Fabric:
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